Rosy Boa Care (Lichanura trivergata)
By Stephen Richardson
Rosy boas are one of two species of boa indigenous to North America; they can
be found in the rocky hills of the Sonoran and Mojave deserts and the chaparral located at
base of many Southern California mountain ranges. There are many unique localities
and/or subspecies that can be found in California, Arizona, and Mexico. Rosy boas are
scientifically named lichanura-tail like a finger, trivergata-three stripes. There is some
disagreement on the number of subspecies among hobbyists and researchers; some of the
classifications are debated.
California has two subspecies of rosy boa, lichanura
trivergata roseofusca (coastal rosy boa) and lichanura trivergata gracia (desert rosy boa). Unique localities of rosy boas are found in parts of Arizona and Mexico, the Mexican species of
rosy boa familiar in the herp hobby is lichanura trivergata trivirgata which is commonly
called the Mexican rosy boa. In my experience field herping I have found rosy boas at all times during the day
except for during the hottest mid-day temperatures. I have removed many coastal rosy
boas from the road as late as noon during early spring; they seen to change their behavior
as the temperature changes from spring to summer where they essentially become
nocturnal. Most of the desert species I have found in the spring are found as the sun is
setting; during the summer they are found late at night. For more information on
California rosy boas go to http://www.californiaherps.com/index.html.
Caging and Substrate
I keep all of my rosy boas in a rack system that includes under-belly heat. I have
a proportional controller that keeps the temperatures just right for my boas. On a small
scale I recommend that rosy boas be kept in cages made for snakes that have locking
doors or lids. Snakes are escape artists so be sure to keep your rosy in a good cage that is
escape proof. I use aspen bedding for my rosy boas; you can find aspen shavings at any
reptile shop, pet supper store, or even at Target. I have shifted all of my colubrids and
rosy boas to aspen chips that are a much finer product than the shavings found in the
previously mentioned locations. I do not recommend any other type of bedding for rosy
boas; aspen is the best substrate for most snakes that do not require high humidity. Do
not use cedar chips, cedar is harmful to reptiles. Rosy boas in captivity need under the belly heat; use a heat pad made for reptiles
and adhere it under and to one side of the enclosure. It is important that rosy boas have
the ability to thermal regulate; they need a cool side and a warm side in their enclosure.
Always provide a hiding place on both the cool and warm sides of the cage and include a
small water dish on the cool side. It is important that the water dish be cleaned and
disinfected at least twice a week. Keep your rosy boa’s water dish full of fresh drinking
water at all times. Additionally, spot clean the cage often to remove any rosy boa
defecations. Some rosy boas can become very nippy if they are not held on a regular basis. I
recommend that your rosy be held at least twice a week to keep them accustomed to
being held. You may have to work on taming a nippy boa. I do have a couple of rosy
boas that will not tolerate being held and they will bite my hands or finger if it is
convenient for them.
Feeding
I feed my rosy boas roughly once a week. A varied feeding schedule is not a bad
idea for captive snakes. All of my adult boas eat frozen-thawed mice or hopper rats. I
recommend using frozen thawed food for all captive snakes whenever possible. For all
my newborn rosy boas I provide frozen-thawed or live pinkies for their first meal. I have
found that most of my baby rosy boas will accept frozen-thawed pinkies for their
first meal, the others take a little time to convert to frozen thawed food. Be sure to
heat up a frozen mouse before feeding it your rosy boa. A cup of hot water will thaw and
heat up a pinky nicely. As the size of the food increases for your snake you will have to
increase the size of the container of hot water.
Be careful not to feed your rosy boa food that is too large. The rule I go by for rosy boas is if
the food item looks like the right size, then decrease the size of that food item a bit; this a
bit subjective and requires some patients when choosing food for your rosy boa.
Generally, the mouse should have a little less girth than that of your rosy boa. Some rosy
boas have sensitive digestive systems; if a rosy boa does not have proper heat or is given
a mouse that is too large, then they will regurgitate their food.
Some Health Issues
Regurgitation should be looked at as a serious problem, especially if it happens
more than once and consecutively. All rosy boa owners should have on hand a probiotic
to be given to the snake a few times a year. I use a product called NutriBac which is a
probiotic designed to promote healthy digestion. I dip the rear end of the mouse or pinky
in the NutriBac and feed the rosy as usual. If a rosy boa regurgitates, then I usually wait a
couple of days and then give them a smaller than usual feeder that is dipped in NutriBac. If
your rosy repeatedly regurgitates, then you may need to see a vet experienced with
snakes.
Although I have had little problems with my rosy boas shedding, you should soak
your snake in warm water if it has retained shed. After soaking you should be able to
carefully remove retained shed gently by rubbing your finger on the snake. The retained
shed should come off the snake. Look carefully at the eyes of your boa, be sure to
carefully remove retained shed from the eyes. If your snake repeatedly has trouble
shedding you may need to seek the advice of an experienced reptile vet or breeder. Do not keep your rosy boa in wet or humid conditions. Rosy boas are from dry
desert climates. Keeping your rosy boa’s cage excessively wet or humid can make your
snake sick. Be proactive and keep your snake healthy by keeping your snake’s cage dry
and clean, chance water often, disinfect the water dish, and pay close attention to the
appearance and behavior of your rosy boa.
Remember that you are responsible for the
health and well being of your boa; do not neglect your responsibility. If you follow the
guidelines included in this care sheet, then your rosy boa will live a very long healthy
life; there are some captive rosy boas that are in excess of thirty years old.